Land Ho!

I first sighted land from the deck of the ferry. A stark but beautiful vista bathed in the warm light of a westering sun. Newfoundland had put on her best bonnet. Temperature in the upper 20s (celsius), not a cloud in the sky, an ocean like a mirror.

This is not quite what I had expected, and from the chatter, it’s rarely what the locals expect either.  The island and its people are used to harsher climes.

From first glance (below), the port town of Port aux Basques looked like a few houses huddled along an unforgiving coastline.

Channel Port aux Basques

Channel Port aux Basques

End of the road

In the morning I decided to drive along the south coast to the end of the road (Rte. 470) and the town of Rose Blanche. Although there are towns further on, they are accessible only by boat.

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My impression was of a land rich in beauty and natural splendour, and one virtually unspoiled by the hand of man.

Isle aux Morts River

Isle aux Morts River

 

Water lillies

Water lilies

 

Harbourfront

Rose Blanche harbour front

Applying a coat of local colour

Applying a coat of local colour

 

Dory

Green-yellow dory

 

Newfoundland flag

Newfoundland flag flying over Rose Blanche

 

 

 

Basement door. Detail

Basement door. Detail

 

Rose Blanche lighthouse

Rose Blanche lighthouse

Built in 1871 from a nearby granite quarry, a sentinel of the shores.

Rose Blanche

Rose Blanche

Rose Blanche

Rose Blanche

Verbatim

jd, to fellow sitting on his porch (FSOHP): “Just another tourist!”
FSOHP: “I can see that. (I set up the tripod to take the photograph above.) Why are you taking a picture of that?”
jd:  “It’s a beautiful corner of the planet.”
FSOHP: “I can’t see it. It’s just my neighbour’s house.”
jd:  “Let’s face it, when you come from a city full of cars and traffic, this is an oasis.”
FSOHP: “I think I understand. And I hear the neighbours don’t talk to each other much over there.”
jd: “Aye.”
FSOHP (as I leave): “You have yourself a good life!”

 

 Port aux Basques to Rocky Harbour

After exploring the south coast, I began the trip up the western coast, stopping at Codroy Valley, where there is an estuary, the promise of bird sightings, and a nature trail. Not many birds spotted, but a pleasant 5 km walk through forest and wetlands.

 

Nature Conservancy maintains the walking trail

Nature Conservancy maintains the walking trail

 

Wild Iris

Wild Iris

 

Yellow warbler

Yellow warbler

 

Buttercup

Buttercup

 

Port au Port Peninsula

On July 8, I circled around the Port au Port Peninsula where the road hugs the coastline and offers spectacular views. Again the weather was holding, although you’ll see the odd hint of fog rolling in.

Vista from the pensinsula

Vista from the pensinsula

Hermit thrush

Hermit thrush

As the crow flies!

As the crow flies!

 

Cape St. George

Cape St. George

 

Lobster traps

Lobster traps

 

Clothesline and fog bank

Clothesline and fog bank

 

Forest field

Forest field

 

Tern at the cusp of a dive

Tern at the cusp of a dive

 Gros Morne

It was late afternoon July 8 by the time I reached Gros Morne and despite all of the literature and tourist information, I was quite unprepared for its beauty. The photographs can’t do it justice, but they can try.

 

Sunlight on water

Sunlight on water

 

Mountains, water and cloud

Mountains, water and cloud

 

Mountain layers

Mountain layers

(July 6-8)

To be continued . . .